My grandma always says you can tell how good an Italian restraurant is by its bread basket, and I tend to agree. The bread basket is many things to many diners. For some, it fills you up before your meal actually arrives and ends up negatively impacting the rest of the eating experience. Every bite of your entree is accompanied by that "why did I eat so much bread" feeling, and can ruin your ability to appreciate what you are eating.[FN1] Some people have figured out how to thrive, even when stuck in this category. My dad, for example, often laments at how much bread he ate before the food was actually served, though this rarely stops him from fully enjoying his meal and even assenting to a bread basket refill. In that way, he is like a great quarterback who needs a short memory to forget that last interception he threw. He is, without a doubt, a first-ballot food hall-of-famer.
For other diners, the bread basket is like a light jog before a longer run - it gets you in the mood for what lies ahead. Somehow, eating a great piece of bread, dipped in a little olive oil, gets the mind racing as you peruse the menu. It can inspire you to be creative in your selection, or maybe even dictate exactly what you order, as in "this bread would taste great dipped in the leftover sauce." The bread basket can also start the food dialogue at the table, or in your head. While first-time diners at a restaurant can only discuss the hypothetical merits of the dishes on the menu, the bread basket gives them an opportunity to comment on something they have actually eaten. And any lingering questions in your head about whether the food is going to be good can often be settled by sampling the bread. Because a restaurant that takes the time to arrange a proper bread basket probably gives the same attention to detail in how they prepare the rest of the meal.
Limoncello in Boston's North End serves one example of a well-conceived bread basket. The basket contains a sizeable loaf of good, crunchy, rustic bread. Its the kind of bread with a crispy, flaky crust and a warm, soft inside. The type that soaks up the olive oil with no leakage and leaves enough crumbs on the tablecloth to instantly betray the diner who has gone back to the well more than others. Usually, that person is me - the area in front of me usually looks like a Jackson Pollock painting with bread crumbs. Accompanying the bread is a small bowl filled with green olives and olive oil, perfect for dipping. On my first visit to Limoncello, I was swallowed alive by the bread. On my second trip, I learned to pace myself. Both times, however, the basket was a sign of good things to come, and I thoroughly enjoyed my meal.[FN2]
For the more aggressive bread basket lovers, I strongly suggest Angelina's Too in Syosset, NY. It's Limoncello's bread basket...on steroids. There is bread and olives and olive oil. And then there is a complimentary plate of meats and cheeses. The basket also contains Grissini breadsticks and a delicious olive spread. OLIVE SPREAD!!! You can make an entire meal out of the bread basket here, so you have to proceed carefully or simply resign yourself to the fact that its going to be one of those nights where you unbutton your pants for the car ride home.[FN3] And just to prove my point about great bread baskets = attention to detail, at Angelina's Too, they will make anything you want, on or off the menu. And they always seem to get it right!
A bread basket is a glimpse into the soul of a restaurant. So grab a piece, drizzle some olive oil, and let the overeating begin!
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FN1: On our trip to Italy last year, my fiance and I noticed that we were the only ones devouring the bread basket every night. It was an easy giveaway that we were Americans. It seems the locals had no use for the bread. I'm not apologizing for my actions, however. The bread was delicious, and it never ruined any of my meals. FYI: best bread basket from the trip was at La Lanterna Due in Sorrento.
FN2: I recommend the tagliolini al limoncello. Wiping the bowl clean with the bread was a great way to finish the meal.
FN3: Speaking of tight fitting pants, a few years ago my family took a vacation and my dad accidentally packed an old pair of slacks that he had outgrown. It was a miracle they stayed buttoned for the night. But did that stop the man? Nope - he enjoyed that meal like the true champion that he is.
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